山窿魚蛋的尊嚴

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29/02/2012

山窿魚蛋的尊嚴 陳淑莊

不少人都會鎖定若干心水食店,心情不好的時候、工作受壓的時候,相約三五知己到「目標店」犒賞自己,「回氣」過後再上路。小時候的我已明白到,原來美味的食物有治療作用,月底結業的「山窿謝記魚蛋」,正好是我年幼時治療名單內的「鐵膽」。

學生時代在薄扶林上學,但凡大時大節或者進入考季,學校提早放學,我都會跟同學們秘密約會,瞞着家人到謝記魚蛋。記得那時幾位女同學擠在圓桌一角,提起筷子急急把魚蛋、魚片和河粉往嘴裏送,幾滴辣椒油就迫得眼淚直流,大家七嘴八舌,吃得雙眼發光,感覺很爽。謝記的魚蛋粉,是學生哥和平民百姓都可以負擔的一種快樂。

時代變了,香港再沒有「山窿」,一句美化巿容吞噬了小販林立的偏僻小巷,賣雞蛋仔、賣白蘭花幾乎要坐牢,謝記魚蛋也因為食材貴、找不到接班人而結業。上一代人的小店不是為賺大錢,而是為了養活一家,給街坊一個聚腳點;謝記拒絕購入次等食材,堅持不會賣出「招牌」,是不想虧待食客,是維護小店的尊嚴。這種堅持原則的情操,是我這個生在「亂世」的香港人要緊記的。

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